Our memorable designs are perfect to enhance the value of new Master Planned Communities, or to help your community increase its property value and eye appeal. Combination Outdoor Lighting & Mailbox Post.Direct Burial and Surface Mount Selections.Or you could use a sealant around the top to try and minimise rain/snow ingress.Nothing supports an original Special Lite mailbox more completely than one of our own eye-catching mailbox post designs. You may need to cut one or two thin wedges to hammer into the post hole beside the post, to take up any slop. Then either just lift out the stub by hand, or screw an eyebolt into the stump and lever it up and out. Next time the post needs replacing, simply bring up your old measurements and carve a new post with a taper and point. Concrete will do the same but will form a socket. The gravel will form a "cup" to reduce rocking due to the slight taper. Drop some sand or gravel, or some wet concrete into the hole and fit the post. When the hole is clear, use a spokeshave to subtly taper the new post for the depth of the hole, and then sharpen the bottom 2 inches/50mm to a 90 degree point. Plus it will be treated wood and that's both hard to light and releases nasty chemicals once it is burning. You might be tempted to try and burn the wood in the middle out - however that runs the risk of cracking the concrete, presuming you can ignite a fire with limited air supply. (I'm no chainsaw user, check with someone qualified)Ī shop-vac would help to pull out dislodged pieces and keep drilling.Ī crowbar or pry bar would help push splinters off the walls and corners of the hole. This needs a long bar and a chain you're prepared to damage if it kisses the concrete. ( Updated - not recommended) If you're competent with a chainsaw it may be possible to plunge-cut downward and eat out the post from the inside. Another option is a larger forstener bit to munch the remains of the post. Perhaps a hole saw on the end of a longer shank would chew out the center. I'd start by getting as much of the old post out as possible. The one linked is only 1.5 inches broad, so maybe too slim for a 4x4 (the broader the joint, the more stability), and with 7.8 inches on the shorter end, but a) I'm sure there are bigger ones b) with it being so slim you could use one for each corner instead of 2 angles c) even with just 2 of these it should be enough stability for a mailbox. *sorry for the German link, it's just to show you that somewhat right-sized angle joints exist. This solution would be by far the easiest, and with the right angle joints and enough screws also very stable. Ideally you want a really really long angle joint of 2x 6 inch, so you use all of the wood that's still in the ground for max stability Then drive in screws as you see appropriate. With 6'' (15cm) above the ground remaining (assuming that those 6 inch are solid and you already trimmed off any splintered bits), you should have enough left to use angle joints*.Ĭut off the bottom piece of wood in such a way that the most non-splintered wood remains (this can even be at an angle), then cut the new 4x4 accordingly (flat or in the mirrored angle as the bottom), then use two longer (or broader?) angle joints in the area where both pieces connect so that the wood is (almost completely or fully) surrounded by metal. THIS ANSWER IS WRONG! I misread the question as the 4x4 having broken 6 inch ABOVE the ground.
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